Monday, June 24, 2019

New Orleans - St. Louis Cemetery #1

Sitting right outside the French Quarter is St. Louis Cemetery #1, which was established in 1789 and is the oldest cemetery in New Orleans. The cemetery has been called “The City of the Dead,” and contains over 700 tombs and is thought to hold the remains of over 100,000 people. The cemetery is a unique place, with the tombs and vaults all sitting above ground. When you first walk in, you pass by a huge wall that is filled with vaults where people have been buried for centuries. The lower level of the wall is partially buried - showing how the land has sunk over the years.

St. Louis Cemetery

The tombs and graves were built above ground for a few reasons. Above-ground graves were common in Spain and France, where the early settlers of New Orleans were from. But it was also practical, since the city sits right at or below sea level and the water table wouldn’t allow deep graves (or else during heavy rains or flooding the dearly departed would just depart out of the ground and float away).

St. Louis Cemetery

Because of its age, the cemetery is the final resting place for some notable residents of New Orleans. But one of the most popular spots in the cemetery is a tomb set aside for someone who is still alive and well – Nicolas Cage. The actor constructed a pyramid-shaped tomb, inscribed with the Latin phrase “Omnia Ab Uno” which translates to “Everything From One.” There is a tradition already of people leaving lipstick kisses on the empty tomb, which our tour guide strongly stated was considered vandalism and was frowned upon.

Omnia Ab Uno

The tour guide spent a good chunk of time here and made fun of Cage and his career. She said that he built the tomb after consulting with a Voodoo priestess who told him to build it in this spot, with this design and with that inscription. She then added “apparently it didn’t work, have you seen his career lately?” Which I thought was a little rude.



I guess she didn’t know that he had a role in Spiderman: Into The Spiderverse? That movie was awesome. Not only was Nic Cage in National Treasure, he IS a national treasure. For what it’s worth, the tour guides are probably thrilled that he decided to move in since it gives them something to talk about.

Our tour guide then escorted us through the the narrow aisles of the cemetery, which seemed like tiny streets running through the labyrinth of tombs. Some of the vaults were surrounded by black iron fences, almost like they had little front yards.

St Louis Cemetery #1

Considering that so many people are buried there, the cemetery is remarkably small. Most of the tombs contain generations of families. When someone dies, they are interred in the tombs and the door is sealed shut. Then the heat and humidity turns the tomb into an oven, effectively cremating the body. After a year and a day, the door is opened and the remains are pushed to the back of the vault with a long pole leaving the tomb available for another person to be buried there (which is where we get the phrase “I wouldn’t touch that with a ten foot pole”).

St. Louis Cemetery #1

Back in the olden days, sometimes people would be accidentally buried who were actually still alive, so bells were placed on the tombs, with a string attached to the finger of the new arrival. If they were to wake up and realize that there had been some sort of huge mistake, all they had to do was ring the bell. This is also, apparently, where we get the phrase “Dead Ringer” and also “Saved by the Bell.”

Saved By The Bell

One of the notable people buried in St. Louis Cemetery is Homer Plessy, who was a civil rights pioneer and a plaintiff in the Plessy v. Ferguson Supreme Court case.

St Louis Cemetery #1

And a bouquet of flowers left for Jean-Bernard Xavier Philippe de Marigny de Mandeville, who was described as a "French-Creole American nobleman, playboy, planter, politician, duelist, writer, horse breeder, land developer, and President of the Louisiana State Senate between 1822 and 1823." At one point he was among the richest men in the country, but he lost his wealth shortly before he died. He is well-known here because he introduced the game of Craps to America.

St Louis Cemetery #1

The tombs in the cemetery range from low humble brick vaults to ornate granite structures. The cemetery is run by the Catholic Diocese, but they don't do any maintenance on many of the tombs since they are considered to be private property. So many have fallen into disrepair after centuries of abuse from the weather, decay and vandalizing tourists. Many tombs have no one left to care for them, which is why many appear to be deteriorating away.

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Some wildflowers and weeds somehow found a place to grow amongst the chunks of brick and mortar on the top of this old vault.

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Some ominous looking storm clouds gathered in the sky above us during our tour, which kinda seemed appropriate to the spookiness of the cemetery.

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But it never did rain on us while we were there, but it was incredibly warm and muggy that afternoon.

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At the back of the cemetery is this old wall vault, which has been partially fixed up with some newer concrete.

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Among those buried at the cemetery is Marie Laveau, who was commonly known as the Voodoo Queen. There are actually a few different tombs that are thought to be the actual burial spot for Laveau, and people still leave trinkets and gifts at any vault that could be associated with her. This tomb shows marks from people who used to write XXX on the outside of the tomb because they thought it would mean that she would grant their wishes. Our tour guide again reminded us that doing so would be vandalism.

XXX

Vandalism like this is why the cemetery is mostly closed to the general public now. A few years back the Catholic Diocese limited access, so now most people can only enter while being part of a tour group.

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Photography is allowed, but any video or filming has been forbidden since the 1960s. That is because in 1965, parts of the movie Easy Rider were filmed in the cemetery without permission. Dennis Hopper and Peter Fonda were shown cavorting with prostitutes and doing acid, with one of them standing on the statue of the ornate Italian Benevolent Society Tomb. After the movie was released, the Catholic Diocese wasn't all that pleased. And after watching clips of the movie, I can see why (I'd link it here but it is NSFW). The top of the Italian Benevolent Society Tomb can be seen in this shot, which was free of any wayward tourists doing acid by the statues. I managed to get this shot before our tour guide ended the tour and escorted us out of the cemetery.

Dead To Rights

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