Tuesday, March 7, 2017

St. Mary's Catholic Church (Plum Bayou)

From Tucker, I made the short drive over to St. Mary's Catholic Church near Plum Bayou. The church is old, and sits alone along a quiet country road. You can tell that it is old, but it's hard to guess from looking at it how historic the little church is. The church was actually founded way back in 1789 on a barge in Arkansas Post. The barge moved upriver to Jefferson County in 1832, and then settled in this spot in 1869. In 1927 the brick exterior was added. The cross on the church is thought to be original, and was covered in copper to protect it from woodpeckers.

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I wanted to try to get a picture of star trails above the church, so I waited until it started to get dark and set up the camera. I was a tiny bit annoyed to see that there is a street light all the way out here in the middle of the country, so I had to move the tripod around to avoid the light being in the shot. But after it got dark enough, I set the camera up to start taking pictures. After about two hours I had about 230 or so shots, which I later stacked together to create this picture. The bright streak in the sky isn't a star, it's actually Venus.

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Saturday, March 4, 2017

Tucker

Last weekend, I made another trip to the Delta to take a few pictures. Right around sunset, I stopped at the small town of Tucker, in Jefferson County. Tucker is known as the home of a maximum security prison now, but it used to be home to large plantation. The Tucker Plantation was established in 1871, and mostly grew cotton. The plantation grew large enough that it supported its own store and post office. The store still stands, although the only thing remaining are the walls. But standing next to the store is the old "Big House" of the plantation. It's now abandoned and empty, nearly hidden by thick overgrown plants.

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I couldn't find any information on when the house was built, but it does look like it probably dates to the turn of the 20th century. Here are a few shots taken while looking around the inside:

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And the view looking out the old house's back door:

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And one last shot, of some daffodils in the backyard that were already blooming.

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Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Louisiana Purchase State Park

After leaving Helena, I had just enough time to swing by the Louisiana Purchase State Park before it got dark. Why is there a park about the Louisiana Purchase sitting in east Arkansas? Well in 1815, President James Madison ordered that the lands of the Louisiana Purchase be properly surveyed. So two surveyors headed out that year to begin the task of surveying the wilderness. They decided to begin in Arkansas, but probably regretted that decision when they began to slog through the swampy terrain of the Delta.

One of the surveyors headed out from the confluence of the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers, the other one from the confluence of the Arkansas and the St. Francis Rivers. Where those two lines met became the initial point, and it was from this point that all surveys of the lands of the Louisiana Purchase would originate. The spot where they met was in the middle of a headwater swamp, a spot which has somehow managed to never have been drained or developed in the hundreds of years since. The swamp is now a State Park, and there is a boardwalk that conveniently takes you out over the murky waters.

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And the sun setting over the swamp. It was February but there were already mosquitoes out.

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In 1926, the Daughters of the American Revolution placed a commemorative stone at the Initial Point. The swamp is on the National Register of Historic Places and is also a National Historic Landmark.

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And one last shot looking up at the canopy of trees. The swamp contains several different types of trees, including tupelo, bald cypress, buttonbush and black willow.

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Monday, February 27, 2017

Helena

The next stop on the drive through the Delta was the city of Helena-West Helena. Situated along the Mississippi River, Helena has a surprisingly large amount of history and culture. The city was incorporated way back in 1833, and was an important stop along the Mississippi during the steamboat era. That location (about halfway between Memphis and Vicksburg), meant that it was a strategic spot during the Civil War. Later on, Helena was one of the places that helped bring about Blues music.

Like so many other Delta communities, Helena has faced some hard struggles in the last few decades. Unemployment, political divisions, crumbling infrastructure, a declining population and lingering racial unrest have plagued the town. But there are some positive changes happening, especially in the downtown area. It really seems like the people there are trying to turn things around and bring life back to Helena.

I say this because just about all the pictures that are going to be posted here are going to be of abandoned buildings, but that's because I've been working on a project involving endangered architecture in the Delta so that is what I focused on. Wile there are many abandoned and decaying buildings here, that isn't all there is to this city.

Anyways, when I drove into Helena my first stop was the old Centennial Baptist Church. The church was built in 1905 and has been listed as a National Historic Landmark. The church was led by the Reverend Elias Camp Morris, who was considered to be one of the most progressive African American ministers at the turn of the 20th century. The architect of the church was Henry James Price, who like Morris was born into slavery. The church they built is impressive, but I'm not an expert at architecture so I'll let the Encyclopedia of Arkansas explain it. They say the church is "a stunning brick Gothic Revival building. Typical Gothic architectural elements are ribbons of lancet windows, buttresses, and brick corbelling. Two tower entries on the south and north corners of the church provide access to the 1,000-seat sanctuary. Buttresses divide the elevations of the building into bays, and corbelling on a prominent front gable creates a vergeboard effect. Brick is also used to create decorative patterns on the tower friezes in the form of crosses and squares. Centennial exhibits the typical lecture-hall floor plan with a raised chancel for the choir, pulpit, and lectern. The most striking features of the sanctuary are exposed curved beams, similar to medieval European hammer beam roofs. Curving braces elaborated with pendants arc from the walls, and original suspended multi-globe light fixtures emphasize the height of the beadboard ceiling. A 1908 pipe organ constructed by Henry Pilcher’s Sons of Louisville, Kentucky, is situated in the center of the chancel.". Over the years, the church hosted civil rights pioneers like Booker T. Washington and W.E.B Du Bois.

The last service in the church was in 1998, and since then the building has been boarded up and closed. But the building has not been forgotten, with several attempts being made to preserve and renovate the building into a cultural center.

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The church actually sits directly across the street from the recreation of Fort Curtis, a fort that originally was built by Union troops during the Civil War. Helena's prominent spot on the Mississippi River meant it was taken over fairly quickly by Union troops. Several fortifications were built around the city to help defend it from the Confederates, including Fort Curtis and several battlements placed on the low hills that surround Helena. The defenses were tested on July 4, 1863, when Confederate troops attacked the city. They didn't have much luck, and Helena remained in Union control for the remainder of the war.

A recreation of the fort has been constructed, with several canons placed along the site of the old battlements. This one almost seems like its pointed directly at the old Centennial Baptist Church.

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I headed a few blocks over and parked in downtown Helena. I walked a few blocks around Cherry Street, passing by the old Cleburne Hotel. The hotel was built in 1905 but has been closed now for several years. Near the front door you can still see an old painted sign which is promoting a breakfast at the cost of only 25 cents.

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And the view of the back of the hotel, featuring a variety of boarded up windows. I would love to be able to get permission to be able to go inside here to take pictures.

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Just a few blocks away is this old abandoned building, which looks like it may have been a warehouse at one time. This doorway opens out onto a walkway that overlooks the Mississippi River levee.

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On the floor above, a tree has started growing through one of the windows.

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Across the street was another abandoned building, which dates back to 1910 and used to house the Helena Wholesale Grocer Co. The roof of the building has recently collapsed, and work is underway to clean out the debris and tear down the building. Part of the walls still stand, so you have the odd sight of blinds still hanging on the windows in the front of the building, but there is no roof and the interior has been cleaned out.

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There is a storage room nearby that has mostly survived intact (besides missing most of a wall). The shelves are still loaded with papers, including a bunch of payroll records that date to the 1970s. It amazes me to think that someone probably spent an incredible amount of time preparing these records, and carefully stored them away. But then they were left to sit for years, and are now sitting in the open and exposed to the weather. All of these papers will probably just be thrown in the trash pretty soon.

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I walked back down Cherry Street, passing by this row of old buildings just across the street from the Cleburne Hotel. The buildings look to be closed off, with boarded up doors. But there is still some stuff on display, including a creepy mannequin looking out through one of the windows.

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Just south of downtown Helena is an old industrial area, which has a few old factories and warehouses. I drove by this one old building and had to stop. It looks to have been abandoned for quite some time. The cavernous interior was empty, except for a few trees trying to grow on the concrete.

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I haven't been able to find anything about the history of this building. But I would love to know anything about when it was built and what it was used for.

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The rusty metal thing here was huge, probably about the size of a car.

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Towering over the building was this old chimney, which was partially covered in vines. It might still be the tallest structure in Helena, although it probably hasn't been used in years.

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After that, I started the drive back towards Little Rock. I did make one more stop along the way, just before it got dark (those pictures will be posted soon!).

Sunday, February 26, 2017

Old Phillips County Jail

The next stop on the drive through the Delta was the old Phillips County Jail. The jail, long abandoned and vacant, sits just south of the small town of Marvell.

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The prison was built as part of a penal farm between 1935 and 1937 by the Works Progress Administration. It was used as a prison until it closed in 1973. It has been empty since then, although judging by the graffiti there are several people who pay regular visits here. This is one of the rooms with the smallest amount of graffiti.

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The paint on the walls (at least the paint not covered by spray paint) is peeling and cracking. This section of paint almost looks like an aerial view of a river system.

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And another shot of the paint, reflecting years of sitting in the heat and humidity of the Delta.

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The prison feels dark and claustrophobic, with narrow concrete walls. It didn't seem like it would have been the most enjoyable place to be, especially since it was built in the days before air conditioning.

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After taking a few more pictures, I headed back to the car and then drove into Helena (pictures coming soon!).