Buffalo National River - Boxley Valley

The ongoing government shutdown didn't seem to impact the Buffalo National River much during our visit last weekend. Unlike previous shutdowns, the access roads to the river were open. The campgrounds and bathrooms were also open (but the Visitor Centers at Tyler Bend and Buffalo Point are closed). Hopefully the rangers and other NPS staff up there are getting paid, or the shutdown will end soon and they will get paid for the last few weeks.

Maybe it was because of the shutdown (or the rainy weekend), but the park didn't seem all that crowded. We did end up seeing a crowd of people as we drove into the historic Boxley Valley. There was a line of cars parked near the Ponca access point, with a bunch of people taking pictures with their phones (and a few real cameras). Which meant one thing - there were elk out there! We pulled over so the kids could see the elk, and I joined the scrum to get a few pictures too. There was one large bull elk walking around, seemingly oblivious to the people nearby.



The elk lazily walked through the field, and the throng of people would all hurry to change position along the nearby road. It was almost comical, the slow-moving elk on one side of the fence and the people on the other side creating a small traffic jam as they all moved their cars further down the road to get a better shot. We left the elkarazzi behind and drove deeper in the historic Boxley Valley. Our next stop was along this little dirt road, which leads to the old Beechwoods Church and cemetery.



And a shot of the old church (built 1915).



It started to rain again as we drove across the valley. We stopped by this old barn (built in the 1920s), and the kids happily ran inside to explore. It was also a good place to sit and watch the rain.



The next stop was a spot along the Buffalo River. The raindrops created ripples across the water, as fog drifted along the tops of the nearby mountains.





The fall colors seemed to get more vibrant as the day progressed, probably thanks to the steady rain. It was a good day to be out and about around the Buffalo.

Down To The River

We headed down the mountain into Boxley Valley. I resisted the urge to stop at every old barn to get pictures, since I was just here a few weeks ago. But we did make one quick stop at the old springhouse, which had a bit of water tumbling down beside it.



And then we headed to the Steele Creek access along the Buffalo. After really heavy rains, there are two waterfalls that pour over Roark Bluff. They are about 200 feet tall, and are among the tallest waterfalls in the state (when they're going). I tried to get a few pictures, but the polarizing filter was wet. I took it off the lens to try to dry it, but my shirt was still completely soaked after our hike that I accomplished nothing but just smearing the water around on the glass. As I was fumbling with the filter, it slipped from my fingers and dropped with a little *plonk* into the muddy and murky waters of the river. Whoops.

Boxley Valley

I woke up just after sunrise the next morning and drove into Boxley Valley, a very scenic part of the Buffalo National River. It had stormed overnight, and the landscape was still soaked and sodden. A little bit of fog clung to the mountains that ring the valley. My shoes quickly got soaked by wet grass as I walked over to get a few pictures of this old root cellar.



And then I headed over to get a few pictures of this very photogenic old barn.







The barn was built back in the 1920s.







It started to rain again as I stopped to get a few pictures further down the road of this old barn. Luckily I managed to get a few pictures that didn't have any rain drops on the lens.



It is interesting to visit Boxley now, after having recently been to Cades Cove at Great Smoky Mountains National Park. They are both incredibly similar. Both are scenic valleys filled with all sorts of historic buildings. Both are managed by the NPS. But the way they are managed is different. When the Park Service took over Cades Cove, the residents were bought out and removed (much to their displeasure). The more modern-looking buildings were torn down, in order to showcase a more traditional view of Appalachian life. The drive through the valley is very pretty (apart from the traffic), but it feels lifeless. Almost as if all the humanity has been removed.

When the NPS took over the Buffalo River, they also bought out and removed many of the residents who lived along the river (also much to their displeasure). But Boxley was different, people were allowed to still live and work here. So the historic barns you drive by are still in use. The fields are still being used, and the homes are still being lived in. It preserved the past, but continues to make the valley feel like a real place. Not just something set aside for tourists to drive through.

I headed down the road and stopped at the old Boxley Baptist Church. The church was built in 1899, and it is still used by local residents as a community center. It's where local residents vote in elections, or take yoga classes. A newer church building was built just a few steps away.



Nearby was this old barn, which was built onto the side of a hill.



And down the road I pulled over at another neat old barn:





While driving through Boxley it's impossible to not constantly stop to take pictures. At least it had stopped raining.









And one of the old houses in the valley, which has such a welcoming front porch.



I always have to stop at this old barn, which was built back in 1915.





There was some talk awhile back about upgrading the Buffalo River into a National Park and Preserve. And like Natalie Imbruglia, I'm torn on the idea. I think the Buffalo River is an incredibly beautiful and special place, and it deserves to be ranked among the most scenic parks in the country. But I also understand the negative impact that it could bring. Namely, overcrowding. After having battled the traffic at Cades Cove, it was refreshing to have the peaceful and quiet roads there mostly to myself that morning.





And one last shot of Boxley, of the old Beechwoods Church (built 1915).



After this I headed out of the valley and went towards another waterfall...

Boxley Valley

Later that day, I headed out from our cabin and drove back towards the Buffalo River. But the fall colors were so surprisingly vibrant that I made several stops along the way. Like at this barn...



And this barn...



And this barn...



And this really colorful tree:



And then I made it to Boxley Valley, which is one of my favorite places to visit in Arkansas. It is a true photographer's playground, since it contains a great colleciton of old barns, homes and churches.



This barn was built in 1915.



And down the road is the old Beechwoods Church (built 1918).



Nearby is this old building, which has been called an old school house. It sits right by the parking lot to the Lost Valley trail, which was completely packed with cars.



I headed deeper into the valley, and stopped again at the old Boxley Mill. The gate to the Mill was actually open, so I hurried over to take a few pictures before the park rangers closed it back up.



The first mill here was built in 1840. The mill would then later be the site of a small Civil War skirmish. The current mill was built in 1870, and was in operation until the 1960s. It closed after a flood washed out most of the millrace.







One of the most prominent buildings in Boxley Valley is the old Boxley Baptist Church, which was built in 1899.



And then further down the road:











It was time to head back to the cabin, but I made one other stop at this old church:



The cabin we stayed at was perched right on the edge of the hillside, overlooking what is known as the Grand Canyon of Arkansas. And while it's not really technically a canyon (more of a valley), the view here does contain the deepest part of the Ozark Plateau. The overlook sits at an elevation of around 2,100 feet above sea level. It is about a 1000 foot drop to the bottom of the valley.



And one last shot, from the stairs that ran to the other nearby cabins: