There was already a traffic jam when we reached the valley, as cars battled for a place in line. We joined the queue and started the slow drive into the valley. Cades Cove was first settled by the Cherokee, who had a village here named Tsiya'hi (meaning “Otter Place”). The cove is actually named after one of the village leaders, Chief Kade. The creek that runs through the valley, Abrams Creek, was also named after another Cherokee chief.
There were Cherokees still living here when the first European settlers arrived in 1818. The first stop on the driving tour actually visits the cabin of the first European settlers, which was built between 1822-1823. The cabin was built by John Oliver (not the guy from TV) and his wife Lurenia. For being over 200 years old, the cabin is in remarkably great shape. Especially considering the logs were put together using notched corners, meaning that the cabin is held up by gravity, without any nails or pegs.
And the view from inside the cabin. The Oliver family lived in the cabin for over 100 years, until the land was taken over by the National Park Service.
We got back into the long line of cars and slowly made our way to the next stop, which was one of the cove’s old churches. I tried to get a few pictures but there was a huge crowd of people. It turns out that someone was having their wedding in the church just then, which I admit would be a pretty neat place to have a wedding (if you like having a bunch of random tourists wandering into the church during the ceremony). We then headed down the road to another old church, the Cades Cove Missionary Baptist Church. The church was built in 1915, and I tried to get a picture despite the crowds and harsh sunny light.
We then got back in the traffic jam and tried to stop at the visitor center to have a picnic lunch. But the parking lot was completely full, and there was a line of about 30 cars waiting for an open space. It was a frustrating experience. The crowds were massive, more fitting for the sidewalks of Gatlinburg than a serene National Park. And I realize it is a little hypocritical to complain about it, since we were also a bunch of tourists sitting in our cars too, but it was overwhelming to be there. We finally found a place down the road to pull over and eat lunch, and by then both kids were completely done. And to be honest we were too. We finished out the tour and sped away from the thick crowds.
But I vowed to return later, when there would definitely be fewer crowds and better light for pictures. So I woke up early one morning, and headed out (along with my Father-In-Law Tom) to get to the cove when it first opens at sunrise. After about an hour of driving, we got to the cove right before they opened the gates. There was already about 10 cars there waiting, but once the gates opened the line quickly dissipated and it wasn’t too bad.
We stopped at the Cades Cove Primitive Baptist Church, which was built in 1887. The congregation dates back to the 1820s, and had been meeting in a log cabin before they built this church.
The inside of the church has unpainted wooden boards, which reminded me of the wood paneling you’d see in people’s basements in the 1970s. You can also see the spot in the middle where the old stove used to sit. Despite the NPS taking over the building in the 1920s, the congregation continued to use the church until the 1960s.
The cemetery behind the church is the oldest cemetery in Cades Cove, and contains the resting places of many of the valley's first settlers. The stone laying down here in this picture marks the grave of John and Lurenia Oliver.
Our next stop was the Cades Cove Methodist Church, which was built in 1902.
It was much quieter that morning, with no weddings ceremonies going on.
The stop after that was a return visit to the Cades Cove Missionary Baptist Church.
Early morning light was streaming through the windows at the back of the church, stretching across the wooden floors towards the pews.
Cades Cove is supposed to be a great place to spot wildlife, especially black bears. We didn’t see any bears but did see a few wild turkeys. Right after this was taken another male turkey ran up to this one and they started to fight.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park was established in 1934, and the federal government obtained all of the land in the valley. The newer and more modern looking buildings were torn down, leaving only the older structures that better represented the pioneer times of old Appalachia.
Our next stop was the Cades Cove Visitor Center, which was where we had failed to find a parking spot on our previous visit. But luckily it was still early enough that only about 15 spaces were taken, and it was actually a little trippy to see the parking lot so empty after it was swamped with cars before. There is a small cluster of historic buildings here, including the Cable House (built 1879).
The main feature here is the grist mill, which was built in 1868.
A few other buildings were moved here from other parts of the valley, including an old barn, a chicken coop, a carriage house, and a molasses still.
Our next stop was the old Dan Lawson Place. There is quaint cabin here (built in the 1840s), along with a barn, smokehouse and chicken coop.
And the view of the valley from the front porch, which looks like it would have been a great place to sit back and relax.
We then eased on down the road to the Tipton Place, which was built in the 1870s.
There is a good collection of old structures here, including the very photogenic double-cantilever barn.
And the barn, as seen from the corn crib.
I think this may have been the blacksmith shop?
Behind the house is an old apiary, which had a nice amount of moss growing on its roof.
And the view looking out from one of the windows inside.
And the front of the house, taken while standing inside the old woodshed.
The last historic structure on the driving tour is the Carter Shields Cabin, which was built in 1880.
We made one last stop before leaving the valley, while taking the short drive down Sparks Lane. This narrow one-lane road connects the two parts of the scenic drive loop.
After that we headed out, glad to have finally seen Cades Cove without having to battle traffic and the crowds.
